The Road to Hana

Most tourists come to Hawaii to do what most tourists do, partake of the finer amenities these beautiful islands have to offer. But if you are one of the fortunate ones to have found Hana, a small, isolated hamlet located on the east coast of Maui, Hawaii, you may wish to change your way of thinking about Hawaii. To travel to Hana, amongst these indigenous people and share their warmth, hospitality and graciousness takes going tropical to a higher level.



In 1975 we found this remote, unscathed getaway, secretly nestled at the end of many miles of switch-back roads, hidden among lush taro patches, rainforests and eye-popping waterfalls. But to get the best this Mecca had to offer and upon excellent recommendation, we decided to solicit a tour guide, and Paco was our man. Two other couples joined us in his well-equipped van, and together we began this unique adventure with much anticipation. Good advice from local fare prepared us for an unforgettable sojourn. After hearing about the fifty-two mile trek along a narrow two-lane road, with over two hundred hairpin turns, crossing over more than fifty bridges, we realized leaving just before dawn was the best time to depart.

We looked forward to our adventure with much anticipation. Besides drinking water, snacks, cameras, and the usual tourist fare, we made sure we had our bathing suits in preparation for a romp in the tropical pools of azure rich waters along the way. We also looked forward to snorkeling the beautiful waters and Paco assured us he had all the equipment we needed.

Just east from Kahului, at Paia, we stopped to gas up; we still had forty-five miles to go before reaching Hana and there were no more gas stations available before then. Also, in Paia, we decided to have breakfast at Charley’s, a favorite spot to chat with the locals and get a feel for the land. And next door the Picnic Restaurant supplied us with delicious basket lunches for later on in the day.

Finally we got on our way as mile marker three sauntered by, where the road becomes one lane and by mile marker sixteen the infamous switchbacks began. Now all we had to do was relax and rely on Paco’s expertise to offer the best this trip had to offer. Along the way we stopped every so often and took pictures and enjoyed the prolific waterfalls, as their beauty took our breath away. And as we went along we passed pictorial vistas that resembled ads in National Geographic, as we each held our mouths open to the wonder of this beautiful land. We rode past brightly colored fruit, displayed like alfresco paintings on roadside stands and inhaled the fragrant lush eucalyptus that permeated the air everywhere we went.

The beauty of Wailua and Keanae Peninsulas greeted us warmly, as it seemed our camera took on a mind of its own clicking profusely at this magnificent beauty that surrounded us. Along the way we’d stop and leisurely walk through lush greenery leading us through breathtaking rainforests. We wondered why there were so many bridges on our quest, but that query quickly became clear as Paco mentioned how the large number of waterfalls equaled the same amount of bridges. That logic definitely went together.

Eventually we were led from the emerald jungle into Waianapanapa State Park, so marked with its ebony-rich, black lava sandy beaches. The contrast was unbelievable. Here we snorkeled and relaxed among all the tropical beauty. We enjoyed our lunch, basked in this oasis, all the while feeling as though we had been transported back into another time.

Back on the road and fifty-two miles later we arrived in Hana. We were greeted with its face of untouched beauty, as the friendliness of its people made us feel welcome. This was truly the “Old Hawaii” we had heard so much about. We took time to hike around town and stopped at the famous Hasegawa’s General Store where you could purchase rubber tires to beautiful handmade sea glass jewelry, or anything in between. Here you could find an eclectic collection of goods just there for the asking. We left with some very unique souvenirs.

We also stopped at the Hana Coast Gallery where island-made crafts and art by local artisans were on display. We had a bite to eat at another famous landmark, the Hana Ranch Restaurant, and in our conversation everyone commented on how quickly the day had gone by. Shortly after that and on Paco’s advice we reluctantly decided to head back to civilization.

It was difficult to believe that such a place exists, where remembrances of the innocence and simplicity of this culture will always stay with those fortunate enough to have been there. Yes one thing is for sure. The road to Hana is not about being there. It’s the beauty you find along the obscure roadways that winds a special and unforgettable place within your heart.

paulygrl ©

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